La Paz at Last

We have been in La Paz for nearly a week now, ensconced at the newest downtown marina, Marina Cortez.  It is  possible to anchor out in the bay, but we decided to treat ourselves to a little luxury for Christmas.

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Looking out over Marina Cortez – we are out near the end of the dock

La Paz is a beautiful city.  Unlike more well-known cities such as Cabo, Cancun or Mazatlan, no cruise ships stop here.  No one tries to sell you Jello shots or cheap trinkets – this is just an authentic Mexican city with a stunning natural setting.  Palm trees sway, flocks of green parrots fly overhead, and colorful tropical fish can be seen from the dock.  The downtown area is located right along the bay, which is bordered by the Malecon, a wide waterfront walkway with benches, sculptures, and beach access.

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Strolling the malecon

The first thing we did when we arrived was head straight up to Rancho Viejo for tacos asada.  Rancho Viejo has been a fixture in La Paz for over 20 years, known for their masterful handling of beef.

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Best taco asada in town

Best taco asada in town!

Another one of our favorite places to eat is the loncheria (basically a lunch counter) at the Nicholas Bravo Mercado.  Antojitos (literally “little cravings”), which include savory empanadas, tostadas, sopes, burritos, and tacos can be had for $15 pesos a piece, which is less than a buck.  Both of us can have a killer lunch for about $3.75 – at that price why would you cook?  We don’t – we have been there almost every day for lunch.

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Another tasty lunch at the Bravo Street market…

In addition to the loncheria, there are fruit and vegetable sellers, fish mongers, and carnecerias in the mercado.  There are modern supermarkets in town as well, but the market is closer, and you get a better experience!

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Friendly produce vendor in the Bravo Street market

Shopping for everyday items can be quite interesting and is entertaining in itself.  When our starting battery began to fail, we started the search for a new one.   Local yachties pointed us to a marine store catering to gringos.  We were shocked at the price, and by doing a little leg work, and asking around (which with my limited Spanish and most folks limited English can be comical) we found our way to Hector’s shop.  We knew we were in the right place by the sign out front…

Batteries for sale...

Batteries for sale…

Hector's shop

Hector’s shop


  Hector told us that the batteries he sold weren’t really very good, but he could get us a good one.  He made a few phone calls and asked us to come back in an hour.  We did, the battery was there, and we paid 1/3 of the price it went for at the marine store.  Turns out Hector used to live in Arizona and drag race a 1968 Chevy Nova – he and Dan had lots to talk about!

If you need a snack while shopping, the city abounds with small carts selling all kinds of tasty treats.  One of my favorites are churros – basically deep-fried dough rolled in cinnamon sugar – they come with a big smile too!

Cooking churros

Cooking churros

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Most people we have met have been gracious, helpful and cheerful.  The whole town just feels, well happy!  I love the colors, the music, and the feel of the city.  LaPaz 017

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We will be sad to leave, and I must admit we have looked into the price of small houses to buy or rent someday…

We will stay here through Christmas, then plan to spend a few days in the islands north of here before crossing over to Mazatlan on the mainland.




8 thoughts on “La Paz at Last

  1. You evil, evil people. Now all I will be able to think of is Rancho Viejo. Ahhhhh, the Al Hombre, so, so very yummmm. So glad that you are in La Paz, truly my very favorite city. Enjoy the peace and the happy people and the amazing food. Oh wait, you didn’t mention the polka dot ice cream place! Have you been there yet? If not, you must! Miss you two, more than words can say. Glasses will be raised in your honor tonight (again!).


  2. Congratulations on your trip around Cabo and up to La Paz! Your fishing and culinary exploits, especially the descriptions of tacos asada, are greatly envied. Enjoy your holidays and continued safe travels. Scott Clarkson, the Starry Decisis, Long Beach.


  3. LaPaz sounds delightful. Have a merry Christmas🌲🎅🏻🌲 We are now officially ‘constant travelers’. We had our downsizing sale, put our house on the market (we got a full price offer the first day!!), and are now living full time in our RV. Glad you are well. Life is good.


  4. Hi Tammy and Dan,
    Dave and I have been following your wonderful blog since we met in Newport. We are following you, although much more slowly, on Cygnus, a Westsail 32.
    Currently we are spending Christmas at my home here in Quesnel, B.C. Canada. Cygnus is moored at Baja Naval in Ensenada. We will be returning and carrying on after Christmas.
    Your posts always provide us with a wonderful preview of the journey ahead. Hope to see you somewhere in sunny Mexico.
    Cheers! Pete Drewcock and Dave Jeschke.


  5. Hi Tammy and Dan,
    Oh what fun! The lure of sunny, friendly Mexico is being felt here in our wet, rainy No Cal home. La Paz looks and sounds amazing. Simple living and good food; doesn’t get any better than that. Enjoy your time there and have a warm and lovely Christmas. Love from the North, Reddi


  6. It is wonderful (if a bit painful) to see you having such a wonderful time! The pictures of La Paz bring back such wonderful memories and spurs us on to get the boat ready and head back out again. We can almost taste the arachera at Rancho Viejo. Sigh! As Rick turned 62 this month, our mantra has shifted from 4 more years to 3 more years. Yippee! We love and miss you, terribly (Christmas ships just weren’t the same without you) and wish you the very merriest Christmas!
    Rick and Cyn


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