Back Home Again – August 2023

Posted on September 1, 2023 by yachtanjuli

All good things must come to an end, including this glorious summer. With the rendezvous behind us, it was time to head south. The first hurdle is getting west out of the Strait of Juan de Fuca, then getting down the coast, and finally, getting safely across the Columbia River Bar. We had spent the summer listening to marine weather forecasts, constantly hearing of strong wind or gale warnings in the Strait due to westerly inflow winds, so the thought of heading west in the Strait had filled us with dread. Punching into 25 knots is doable, but when boat speed drops to 1-2 knots it makes for a long uncomfortable day.

But the weather gods were with us (or maybe the seasonal pattern is just shifting to fall) and after waiting two days anchored outside the marina in Port Ludlow, WA it was time to go and take advantage of some rare calm wind in the Strait.

We rode the ebb tide from Port Ludlow to Port Angeles where we took a spot on the transient dock. It’s been almost 20 years since we have been in Port Angles, and it looks like Covid didn’t do this town any favors. There are a few bright spots on the main street through downtown, with a stellar natural food grocery store called Country Aire right on 1^st Street. Had one of those small world experiences – turns out the base player for the band at the rendezvous is a liveaboard in Port Angeles on his Perry-designed Passport 40. We stayed two days, waiting for a one-day pulse of west wind to blow down the Strait, then headed out to Neah Bay. We had brisk easterlies to scoot us along, and 9.5 hours later we were anchored with a host of other southbound boats. Enjoyed a nice steak and a bottle of wine to celebrate our 27^th wedding anniversary then went to bed in preparation for an early morning departure.

Its about 165 miles from Neah Bay to Astoria. The trick is to arrive at the Columbia River Bar on the tail end of the flood or at high water slack. Much better to arrive early then to arrive late and miss the window for entry. Freighters and boats with a lot of power have more leeway, but sailboats are really at the mercy of the tide. For instance, the strong evening ebb for Saturday, August 26 ran out at about 4 knots. When that meets the incoming Pacific swell, it creates steep waves that are dangerous for small craft. We can only motor at about 5-6 knots, so pretty obvious that we would not be going in on the ebb.

In order to make sure we arrive at the Columbia River bar at the optimal time, it meant leaving the Strait at a not so optimal time. We left at dawn at the beginning of the flood (flowing east) with an east wind. Wind against the tide created steep choppy seas, which although uncomfortable was not as dangerous as at the bar where shallow water compounds the problem. We left the anchorage with a single reef in the main, and it wasn’t very long until we had the second reef in, then the third reef with a reefed staysail and 28 knots of wind. Well at least it was behind us. By the time we were 10 miles past the entry to the strait the wind died and we motored in oily seas.

The wind blew a small, tired, Pacific Slope Flycatcher onboard. Our little friend stayed with us all day, catching bugs, and we marveled at how tame he appeared. We were crushed when he started slowing down and then, just laid down and died. I almost cried.

Our tiny friend – Pacific Slope Flyactcher

What a way to put a finality on the end of the trip. The carefree days of summer are gone. I will miss the cry of seagulls wheeling overhead, the phosphorescent trails dolphins leave as they streak alongside the boat at night, and the feeling of oneness with the boat as we travel the seas on our little vessel. Time to return to responsibilities, doctors’ appointments, and tasks left undone. I am so thankful that we were able to do this trip and can’t wait for June to roll around so Anjuli can take to the sea again. Thanks for joining on this trip!

South Through the Swinomish Channel to Port Ludlow and the Perry Rendezvous – August 2023

Posted on August 24, 2023 by yachtanjuli

Some time ago, I read an article about transiting the Swinomish Channel in lieu of crossing the Strait of Juan de Fuca. It sounded interesting. Also known as the “chicken route”, it allows you to skip the sometimes-sporty passage across the strait from the San Juans down to Puget Sound. The Channel is about 10 miles long and begins in Padilla Bay just east of Anacortes, WA and continues south to Skagit Bay on the west side of Whidbey Island. The cute town of La Conner is found near the southern end. Having been firmly aground more than once, we had no wish to repeat the experience so we planned our entry at low tide so the rising tide would help us if we had an “incident”. With a 12 ft tidal fluctuation, it is not a place you want to go aground at on a falling tide. The channel supposedly has a least depth of 8 ft but is prone to silting. At least the thing is well marked, and the rule is just stay in the middle!

At the north end there is a highway bridge and a railroad swing bridge which remains open at all times except when it doesn’t. As we approached with 20 knots, a 3-knot current, and several trawlers behind us the bridge swung shut. As we backpedaled in 7 ft of water, we were beginning to regret our decision, but there’s no turning back at that point. Fortunately, the bridge swung open again within a few minutes and we were swept through with the incoming tide. We saw 12-14 ft of depth for the remainder of the channel to La Conner.

Tying up there reminds me of docking on the Columbia or Multnomah Channel during the spring freshet. The water is moving right along, but fortunately, the marina hires a bevy of college girls for summer help who are on hand to grab your lines and help you tie up, and even give you a ride to town in a golf cart. It’s a very nice facility, with clean, free showers, WIFI, and a charming historic downtown filled with very nice shops and restaurants just a few blocks away. After two days on the dock, it was time to tackle the exit. More fun. We waited three hours past low tide to give us more water at the notoriously shoaly south end. We made it without incident, but I can’t imagine we will do it again.

Since we got a late start, we made for Coupeville about 15 miles away. The public dock was full when we arrived, but there is plenty of good anchorage. Coupeville in located in Penn Cove which is known for its mussels, and but we didn’t go ashore, and left early for the 15-mile trip down to Langley.

Got a spot on the outer breakwater dock at Langley, another charming, small town on Whidbey Island. We had time to enjoy the town. Like La Conner, there were lots of small shops and eateries, and the finest small grocery store we have seen in months. Enjoyed evening on the dock, and watched the north wind build, and build until we had a steady 25 knots with waves breaking over the dock. Met some of our neighbors when we were all out there adding more lines and fenders. The next morning was calm, and the dock personnel told us there had been 40 knots up at Coupeville – glad we didn’t experience that!

Leaving with the ebb, we headed south against a brisk south wind taking spray over the dodger. Wind against tide is never good, but at least it was only 10 miles, then we rounded Possession Point, turned north up towards Port Ludlow, got some sail out, and flew along with the wind and tide at our back.

We arrived at Port Ludlow Marina in the early afternoon, realizing a goal we have had for over 20 years – attending a Perry Design Rendezvous, an annual gathering for those with or interested in Robert Perry-designed boats. Sailors already have lots in common, but when everybody has a boat with the same designer, you really have lots in common! With 42 boats and crews in attendance, it was the largest rendezvous ever. We crawled all over each other’s boats, shared stories and cocktails, and made lots of new friends. We even met Bob Perry and got a picture of him with us and our boat. Enjoyed a talk on cruising sails, a potluck dinner, and a great live band and dancing. What a fun time!

A Visit to the San Juan Islands – August 2023

Posted on August 16, 2023 by yachtanjuli

We had a great visit with cruising friends in Anacortes, WA, and even managed to take in the Anacortes Arts Festival and do a little thrift store gunkholing, both in which treasures were found. With two weeks to go until the Perry Rendezvous we had time to spend a week out in the San Juans before continuing south.

If you’ve never been, they are most certainly worth a trip. There is an island for every personality, from Roche Harbor on San Juan Island which caters to the high-end yacht club crowd to small islands not serviced by the ferry where the best lodging is your tent. We made a roughly clockwise loop, beginning with Blind Bay on Shaw Island, then to Massacre Bay on Orcas Island (both of these bays near the center of the group), out to Echo Bay on Sucia Island (northern portion), and then to Eagle Harbor on Cypress Island (easternmost).

Spent three nights in Shaw Island’s Blind Bay waiting for squally wet weather from the south to pass. Lots of other folks had the same idea – we counted 47 boats one night. It’s a large bay with very convenient anchoring depths, and room for many, many boats. Took advantage of an early morning low tide to kayak around the perimeter, although cloudy weather makes it harder to see the sea life. Being thoroughly tired of generators on power boats, we made a break for it as soon as the weather cleared and went a whole 5 miles over to Massacre Bay on Orcas Island. Only one other boat shared the anchorage with us, and sunny skies made for great visibility when kayaking.

Leaving Massacre Bay, we headed out with the tide through the Wasp Passage to Sucia Island, one of the northern fringe islands. Currents are noticeably stronger in the San Juans than in the Canadian Gulf Islands, and it makes sense if you look at a current chart, as the majority of water flooding in from the west from the Strait of Juan de Fuca gets pushed up through the San Juans. The cycle repeats on the ebb, draining the waters of the entire Strait of Georgia south through the islands. Heading westward out of Massacre Bay, we shot through the Wasp Passage at 8 knots. Sure glad we didn’t meet one of the WSF ferries that use this pass while transiting!

Sucia Island is a special place. The last time we were here was in 1997 on a charter boat, before we even owned Anjuli. I haven’t been everywhere in the San Juans, but of the places I have been, this is my favorite. The island was purchased in 1960 by a group of local yacht clubs to make sure it remained available to yachtsmen in perpetuity. There is a large open bay, as well as numerous other smaller bays with mooring balls or anchoring opportunities. There are a variety of trails, campsites and other improvements for boaters and campers. We spent two nights in Echo Bay with numerous other boats, including the 1913 133-ft historic schooner “Adventuress”, which now provides educational trips for youth. We enjoyed the shady trails and evening sunsets watching the last rays of the sun on Mt. Baker. Beautiful.

But to get to the Rendezvous we needed to push on, so we headed out to Eagle Harbor on Cypress Island which would put us in good position for entering the Swinomish Channel, our planned southerly route. Catching the ebb, we raced along the north side of Orcas Island at 8 knots. Did I mention the currents are fierce in the San Juans? You must (if you care about saving diesel and making good time) go with the tide. We arrived before noon and were able to grab a ball. The Washington Department of Natural Resources has installed 15 free mooring balls in Eagle Harbor to protect the eel grass which provides habitat for juvenile salmon and grows in the shallower water. This was only our second ball experience with Anjuli, but it was okay. We did have to get up at 2 am and rig a snatch block off the end of the bowsprit to keep the thing from banging on the hull, but bonus, we got to take in some of the Persied Meteor Shower! I still feel better on our own anchor, however, a boat that came in later when there were no more balls available ended up anchoring, and after departing in the morning, we heard their panicked mayday call. Apparently, they hooked an old anchor chain (or possibly old mooring) which came up with their anchor and somehow got caught on their sail drive, damaging it and the rudder, leaving them without steering. How terrifying, especially as they we being swept down the channel in the strong current. Luckily a small interisland ferry came to their rescue, and they made it into Anacortes. Boaters are the best people!

Winter Cove, Saturna Island, BC, to Anacortes, WA

Posted on August 9, 2023 by yachtanjuli

Lest you think all days on the water are filled with sunshine and butterflies, let me remind you that it isn’t always so. The boat demands attention – and the prudent cruiser lavishes all the attention the boat demands so that when it’s really icky, the boat will repay your kindness by taking care of you. So, upon leaving Montague, we scheduled a workday in Winter Cove on Saturna Island. Dan changed the oil and checked all the fluids, and polished stainless, and I sanded and put a maintenance coat of Cetol on all the handrails. Polishing stainless and doing woodwork are never finished on this boat – you get it all done and it is time to start again.

Winter Cove is a nearly landlocked anchorage with room for many boats, and every year on Canada Day (July 1), it is home to the Saturna Island Lamb Roast, which our Canadian friends tell us is “epic”. We missed it by a few days this year, but next year…

We left Winter Cove early in the morning to make it up to Ganges Harbor on Saltspring Island at checkout time to snag a spot at the dock. Spotted an empty aluminum skiff in the Navy Channel – it looked suspicious – the oars were inside on the seat, and the painter was also thrown inside and was not chafed. Half of a neoprene wet suit lay on one of the seats. Had someone gone out to check crab pots and fallen in? We contacted the Coast Guard who came and collected it and did a search of the area. We hoped for a happy ending, and hurried on to Ganges where we got the last spot on the public dock.

Ganges Harbor is the center of activity in the Gulf Islands, and the village is centered on the harbor. Lots of restaurants, galleries, shops, and provisioning opportunities. We arrived Friday morning so as to be able to attend the Saturday Farmers Market. As a bonus, the annual Pride Parade was also happening. Had a delightful stay, but ran over a crab pot float on the way out. I was inside, and the sound was awful. Dan immediately took the boat out of gear and tested out forward and reverse – whew, everything seemed to be okay.

We headed to James Bay on the north side of Prevost Island. Just about 5 miles from Ganges, this turned out to be one of our favorite Gulf Islands anchorages. The bay is surrounded by park land, so it feels remote. Shallow rocky reefs line both sides of the bay making for great kayak exploration, and when we threw the kayaks in to explore, the big wad of line around the prop was clearly visible.

Captain Dan had to don a wet suit and go in and cut it off – at 65 degrees, the water is chilly even with a wet suit!

After removal of the wad, we were able to enjoy kayaking. We saw starfish, crabs, sea cucumbers, harbor seals with pups, an otter, and thousands upon thousands of small fish. A lovely spot, but with the arrival of north wind (bay is open to the north) it was time to move on. A night in Port Browning on South Pender Island (where bizarrely, the skiff we found in Navy Channel rowed by us), then across Haro Straight to the Friday Harbor Customs dock to check into the USA.

Last time we were there, the Customs dock was manned with real people, and check-in took about 10 minutes tops. Now it is an App. It took us about an hour and a half to download the app, put in all required data, go to another site and buy a customs decal, then get back on the app, then have a facetime meeting with a customs officer, then at last a receive a clearance. Another example of technology improving our lives.

Friday Harbor is very, very busy, so we didn’t linger after getting our clearance number, but headed over to Spencer Spit on Lopez Island for a quiet night before crossing Rosario Straight and heading to Anacortes. We awoke to thick fog. No bueno. No sense going anywhere til the fog lifts – Rosario Strait is a very busy stretch of water with lots of commercial traffic. And current – fierce current. By the time the fog lifted, the ebb was well advanced, and basically headed the way we were going. We got about 1 mile out from the entrance when the fog returned. A moment of indecision was enough to sweep us past the entrance (Burrows Pass), and with a 6-knot current there was no motoring against it, and it seemed prudent to just go with it. Went a few miles south of the entrance islands, the sun came out, and we motored up into Anacortes’ Skyline Marina in flat calm. We’ll spend a few days here visiting friends and reprovisioning.

Lazy Summer Days in the Gulf Islands – Nanaimo to Montague Harbor Marine Park

Posted on July 29, 2023 by yachtanjuli

I’m kind of more an adventure girl than a sit and relax girl, but sometimes you just gotta go with the flow. Would I prefer to be headed north off the beaten path on our way to parts unknown, yes, but that will have to wait until next year. Dan’s pinched nerve issue has almost resolved itself, but its too late to turn around and head north if we are to make the Rendezvous in Port Ludlow in three weeks. So for now, we are making our way south in a leisurely fashion.

To enter the Gulf Islands, upon leaving Nanaimo, one must either pass south through Dodd Narrows or go out into the Straight of Georgia and around the outside of the islands and in through one of the passes. Most passes and narrows must be navigated by sailboats and low speed vessels at slack tide (some passes attain current flows of up to 12 knots, which is about twice as fast as our boat can motor). British Columbia has a semidiurnal tidal cycle, meaning it experiences two high and two low tides per day. Typically, there is a brief period of time where the water isn’t going up or down, but is “slack”, and this is the best time to transit. The actual duration of slack varies by location, and you are usually okay transiting a few minutes either side.

Dodd Narrows has a least width of about 200 ft and a slight dogleg, which means you can’t see boats coming from the other side. Boats typically announce on the VHF that they are entering so boats on the other side can wait until they are through to begin their transit. This is especially important when commercial traffic, like a tug with a large raft of logs is transiting. Several weeks ago, when headed north, we passed through late in the afternoon, and everyone was very polite and took turns. A different story when headed south on a morning slack. A few announcements, a few early passages by boats that could power through the current, then a basic free for all. At least it’s over quick.

Spent our first night in the Gulf Islands anchored in North Cove at the north end of Thetis Island. A big wide-open anchorage, which we ended up sharing with Awana, a 203-ft, $100 million dollar yacht with a helicopter, owned by a Brazilian billionaire. Craziness.

From there we went down to Galiano Island and Montague Harbor Marine Park. BC has a number of delightful marine parks, which typically have a public dock, mooring balls, and camping. We anchored on the outside of the harbor off a lovely white sand beach.

For me, this is the quintessential summer experience; a calm anchorage, people kayaking, swimming, soaking up the sun. Laughter in the background, somewhere a dog barks. As the day ends, a glorious sunset bathes all in a soft golden light.

News of the world fades from importance, and seems as far away as the moon. Days pass. The most important thing becomes the wind direction and the depth of water under the boat. Happiness is a cocktail on the foredeck watching the sunset and knowing the batteries are fully topped off after a sunny day. It’s the little things!

North Then back South Again

Posted on July 19, 2023 by yachtanjuli

We had ambitious plans for this trip. We had hoped to get up to the Broughton Archipelago north of Vancouver Island in eastern Queen Charlotte Sound, then come back down and attend the annual Robert Perry (Anjuli’s designer) Rendezvous in Port Ludlow, WA in late August. We were delayed two weeks with mechanical issues before even getting to Astoria, which had us worrying about time. Should we go on up to the Broughtons, blow off the rendezvous and come home down the outside of Vancouver Island, or make haste to get up there, see what we can and then head back for the rendezvous. Looks like fate has decided for us.

North-bound, dinner in the cockpit at Montague

Dan was diagnosed with chronic lymphocytic leukemia (CLL) in April, however he has no symptoms other than a swollen lymph node, and his doctor said we should just live our life, as he may have had it for some time, and could live decades more with it (his 100-yr old mother was diagnosed with it 15 years ago). But when he began to develop severe hip pain it was cause for concern. We visited a doctor in Nanaimo, BC ($72 USD, which seems darn reasonable) who diagnosed piriformis syndrome, wherein the muscle of the same name pinches the sciatic nerve. He recommended some exercises, hot or cold packs, and extra-strength Tylenol, and said it usually resolves itself within 3-6 weeks. Feeling better about it, we decided to press on, and left Nanaimo headed north.

We spent a night anchored at the north end of Texada Island, and passed a few pleasant days at Squirrel Cove in Desolation Sound. A week later found us 100 miles north anchored in Bickley Bay on East Thurlow Island after having passed through Dent Rapids.

Once you pass through Dent Rapids, the change in scenery is quite noticeable. The land becomes much rawer and wilder, and the number of boats drops in half. Towering granite mountains with snow clinging to the peaks line the shores, and its not uncommon to see bears prowling the shoreline of the mainland. This is part of the smooth-water route to the north end of Vancouver Island which allows small vessels to avoid the notorious Johnstone Strait. Most afternoons see 25-knot winds funneling down the straight from the northwest, making for a very uncomfortable trip for north-bound boats. This can all be avoided by taking the back route, but then you mast pass through a series of rapids, which must be traversed at slack tide.

We had negotiated the first set; Yuculta Rapids, Gillard Passage, and Dent Rapids, and were anchored in Bickley Bay, about 10 miles north of the rapids. We spent a calm night, and a calm day, and decided to stay another night. But it was an uncomfortable night; wind came up pushing us closer to the shore which shallowed rapidly, and Dan was unable to sleep as laying down was much more painful. To top it off, the anchor chain was rubbing on a rock, and the horrible noise transmitted through the chain to the boat. This is like fingernails on a chalk board for sailors. Sitting out in the cockpit at 1am watching the too-close shore while the boat swung violently around with the chain grating on a rock, we asked ourselves if we were doing the right thing. There was no cell service, spotty VHF reception, and we are a long way from any real civilization. What if it wasn’t just a nerve issue, but something worse? We decided the prudent thing to do would be to turn around and head back, re-assessing as we went. If Dan’s condition continued to deteriorate, we would make a bee-line to a port in Washington where he could see a doctor. If it improved, we could still enjoy the Gulf and San Juan Islands and catch the rendezvous, all while being relatively close to medical services. Our decision was reinforced when on the way back, while anchored in Boho Bay at Lasqueti Island, a man on a nearby anchored boat took a bad fall down the companionway. He was continuously blacking out, and the Coast Guard came and took him and his wife off the boat to seek medical attention. I can’t imagine leaving our boat, our pride and joy, alone and unattended in a deep, relatively remote anchorage. What a terrible to decision to make.

So today finds us back in Nanaimo. Dan is feeling a bit better. Thankfully, the most comfortable position for him is at the helm or in the kayak, so some fun can still be had. Tomorrow we will pick up anchor and head south through Dodd Narrows and spend some time in the Gulf Islands before heading on to the San Juans, and then Anacortes to pick up a package and visit friends.

Astoria, OR to Victoria, B.C. and Saanich Peninsula (posted from Naniamo, BC)

Posted on July 10, 2023 by yachtanjuli

Buoy 10 – the go/no go point for the Columbia River Bar

We left Astoria at dawn on June 27, a few hours before high tide, in company with friends Peter and Susan on their Hans Christian 38 Penelope. Perfect timing for an easy bar crossing.

We had intermittent sunshine with occasional drizzle the whole trip. Light westerlies allowed us to motor-sail at a respectable six knots, and 33 hours later we had the hook down in Neah Bay. Our first order of business after a long passage is always the

“cheating death” beverage, which in this case was a Bloody Mary. Neah Bay is a large, open bay with plenty of room to anchor. There is a nice marina, but it is almost completely full of native commercial fishing boats. We went for a 7-mile walk over the back of Cape Flattery to view the ocean, but mostly just hung out on the boat for four days waiting for the strong westerlies in the straight of Juan de Fuca to die down.

Penelope left the day before us and saw over 30 knots in the straight, but they are a bigger, heavier boat than we are. We waited one more day and saw no more than 10 knots. As we were leaving Neah Bay, the Coast Guard was towing in a disabled ketch – looked like they had had a rough night! With an incoming tide, we scooted along at 7-8 knots, and made Victoria Harbor mid-afternoon.

Nice day in the Straight of Juan de Fuca

It has been over 20 years since we last sailed Anjuli into Victoria, so we were pretty excited to be there. It is one of my favorite places – it is quintessential Canada, but kinda English too. The sub-Mediterranean climate is lovely – they only get 20-25 inches of rain a year, far less than Vancouver on the mainland. After a quick stop at the Customs Dock, we tied up at the Causeway Marina in front of The Empress Hotel and Parliament Building. The quay around the marina is filled with non-stop activity; performers, artists, food and great people-watching. The marina is well-kept, with a secure gate, and the friendly staff even helps you tie up. The price has quadrupled since we were here last, but I guess that’s a sign of the times.

Spent a day enjoying the sights of Victoria and gathering provisions then headed out for a motor boat ride around the Saanich Peninsula. Spent a quiet night anchored with a few other boats in Coles Bay in the Saanich Inlet, then woke up early and continued on to Tod Inlet just a few miles away. Tod Inlet provides a nearly landlocked anchorage just a 5-minute dinghy ride from the back gate of Butchart Gardens in Butchart Cove. Upon arrival the anchorage appeared pretty tight, but we found a spot, and got anchored. There are also four free mooring balls in Butchart Cove if you are planning to visit the garden, and a back entrance for boaters only!

Spent a lovely afternoon visiting the gardens and having a nice lunch before returning to lounge on the yacht. As a bonus, your entrance ticket allows you to come in as many times during the day as you like. We were encouraged to return at night to see the gardens lit up – which we did, and also took in the concert on the grass. I felt like I was in adult Disneyland! A beautiful evening listening to live music, breathing in the aroma from the adjacent rose gardens, wandering the gardens in the moonlight, then a short dinghy ride back to the mothership. Hey, I could get used to this! Tomorrow we will venture north again.

The Way North – Delayed a Bit

Posted on June 26, 2023 by yachtanjuli

Several years ago we hatched a plan to spend winters in the Sea of Cortez on Bluebird and summers in beautiful British Columbia on Anjuli. It seemed like a good plan, and we had quite an adventure sailing Bluebird in Mexico this last winter, but I think Anjuli got her feelings hurt, and she wasn’t going to let us get away with neglecting her and throwing her over for that other boat.

We tried moving her down the river to Astoria over Memorial Day weekend, but a strong smell of diesel let us know we had a leak. Dan quickly diagnosed the leak as from the high-pressure fuel pump. No bueno.

The pump had been rebuilt in 2016 in Guadalajara after the engine began dying at low rpms. Dan pulled the pump off and we sent it down to Oregon Fuel Injection for diagnosis and repair. Problem solved with a rebuild – apparently older seals and o-rings don’t like ultra-low sulfur diesel (ULSD), which tends to harden them. ULSD was phased into use in the US in 2006-2007, and according to a quick internet search, “ULSD runs in any engine designed for the ASTM D975 diesel fuel, however, it is known to cause some seals to shrink, and may cause fuel pump failures”. Well who knew? Not us, and it has cost us two pump rebuilds. In newer vehicles, the seals and o-rings are now made with a different material not subject to hardening due to ULSD, and Oregon Fuel Injection assured us they used seals and o-rings of the new material. Well let’s hope so. There are also a host of additives that we could have added to avoid this problem – if only we had known the problem existed.

After a week of waiting for the repair, and a considerable lightening of our wallet, Dan had the rebuilt pump back in, and we set off down the river. Didn’t get very far. More leaking, only this time from the injector tubes. Almost a quart in a half hour run time. Yikes! Back to the dock. Take them off, put them back on, take them off, polish the ends, put them back on. Repeat. Ordered four new injector tubes. Not one to give up, after another try Dan got them to all seal. Hopefully the four shiny new spares will remain just shiny new spares.

At last, we backed out of Island Marina in Portland, our home port for the last 15 years, for a new adventure up north and new home port in Astoria. It is bittersweet – exciting to start new adventures, but sad to leave friends and a place where we had such good times. We caught the ebb and were swept down river at a steady 6 knots.

Down the Multnomah Channel, past Coon Island, Gilbert River, St. Helens, all places we have such wonderful memories of. Down past Rainier and the Longview Bridge, and on to Coffee Pot Slough next to Puget Island where we anchored for the night.

After a blissfully flat calm night, we left at dawn, and again caught the ebb. Bright sunshine gave way to thick fog pouring out of the Skamkawa Valley, which quickly brought visibility down to a few hundred yards. Guess we needed to practice looking at the radar anyway. It’s still unnerving to see a giant freighter come out of the fog headed your way even if you know its coming!

The fog cleared within a mile, and we made the last 20 miles in no time, smoking along at almost 9 knots with the outgoing current. We were tied up in our new slip by 10:30. A few minutes later, a new neighbor stopped by to chat. This will be a good place too.

Looks like the weather gods will allow us to leave within a day or two. The plan is to visit the Broughton Archipelago near the northeast end of Vancouver Island, then catch the Robert Perry Rendezvous (our boat is a Robert Perry design) at the end of August in Port Ludlow, WA before heading home. Hope you join us!

This is Bluebird

Posted on April 2, 2023 by yachtanjuli

Thanks to all who followed our recent sailing adventures aboard Bluebird in Mexico’s beautiful Sea of Cortez. Although she is a swell little boat, we have realized our heart belongs to Anjuli, and two boats is one too many to take care of. This blog will catalog Bluebird’s virtues and provide information for those who may be interested in buying her. Read on if you’re curious, or pass on a link to this blog to your sailing friends who might be in the market for a turn-key small, trailerable cruising yacht.

Bluebird is a Cascade 29 sloop. Designed by Robert A. Smith, she was built in Portland, OR in 1973, hull number 230. LOA is 29 ft, LWL is 24 ft. She draws 4 ft 9 in., with a fin keel and bulb, and displaces 8,500 lbs. She has the standard hard Cascade dodger, an aluminum mast, and wood boom.

Interior – Bluebird’s interior is finished in mahogany. She has 6-ft settees to port and starboard in the main saloon. A folding table, located above the Force 10 propone heater provides seating for dining.

The head separates the main cabin from the vee-berth, and a hanging locker is located opposite of the head. The head features a Raritan marine toilet with a 6-gal. holding tank.

The galley lies athwartships on either side of the companionway, with a Flavel B.700C double burner propane stove (with oven and broiler) to starboard, and a single stainless-steel sink with hand pump (she carries 40 gallons of fresh water in a poly tank located under the vee-berth) and countertop access to the fridge lie to port. Additional access to the fridge is located below the sink. The fridge is cooled by an Alder-Barber Super-Cold Machine (installed new in 2022).

Other interior systems/features include the following:

Standard Horizon Intrepid VHF
Furuno 715 Radar Display
Furuno GPS
1000-watt Xantrex inverter
40-amp 3-step Xantrex battery charger
Two Lifeline 8D batteries (500 amp hrs)
All interior lights are LED
Kenwood car stereo with four Alpine speakers
Recology 20-amp solar panel controller
All new thru-hull valves

Exterior – Bluebird’s hull was freshly painted in 2021, and cabin, dodger and topsides in 2022, with three coats of Interlux Perfection. Her iron keel was ground to fresh metal and sealed with POR-15 before applying Micron CSC bottom paint in 2022. Non-skid areas have been treated with KiwiGrip Marine.

A Plastimo bulkhead-mount lighted compass and Signet depth sounder are located in the cockpit as are engine instruments.

A 16-lb Delta Fast Set is mounted on the bow with 90-ft of 5/16 chain, and 100 ft of 5/8 in. three-strand rode.

Power – Bluebird is powered by a Westerbeke 4-60 diesel engine which spins a 2-blade bronze prop on a new 1-in. stainless steel shaft with a PSS dripless shaft seal and new cutlass bearing. The engine high pressure pump and atomizers were rebuilt by Oregon Fuel Injection in 2020. The exhaust system has been rebuilt.

Sail inventory includes a main, a furling jib on a SpinTech roller furling system, a storm jib, and a spinnaker. The exterior halyards are of Dyneema.

Two 100-watt Recology solar panels mounted on the dodger (new in 2022) provide power for the systems and keep the fridge running to provide the crew with cold beer and ice cubes for sundowners.

Trailerable – Perhaps one of her greatest features is that fact that she can be trailered. Want to sail Mexico but don’t want the long trip down and bash back? Just hook Bluebird up to your pickup and make the trip down via the highway! Her triple axle-trailer has electric brakes and a 20-ft tongue extension. Seven adjustable pads provide support.

Bluebird is a turn-key trailerable small cruiser ready for her next adventure with a new owner. She is comfortable and capable, and has been lovingly restored. She is being offered for $17,500. If you’re interested, please contact us by the “Leave a Reply” button.

The Road Home – January to February 2023

Posted on February 17, 2023 by yachtanjuli

Due to the upcoming nuptials of one our children, this was a short sailing season requiring us to be back in the states no later than the first week of March. The ideal sailing season in the Sea of Cortez is typically late February through about April, when the strong northers have ceased, but the summer heat has not yet descended. But hey, sailing is seldom done in ideal conditions so you take what you get.

We enjoyed our stay at lovely Marina San Carlos, but by the end of January it was time to think about heading north. We wanted to give ourselves plenty of time in case we got stranded somewhere due to winter weather. There is no way we are towing a boat that weighs more than our truck through snow!

Marina San Carlos offers two methods for haulout; for larger boats, the “slipper” with hydraulic supports which is backed down a concrete ramp into the water beneath your boat, then pulled out with a tractor for transport to the dry storage yard, or a fixed crane which can handle smaller boats up to about 10,000 lbs. Bluebird weighs in at about 6,500 lbs. so we were able to use the fixed crane which is a real bargain at $42 USD for each lift or launch. That’s about 1/6 of what we paid to launch in Peñasco, but to be fair you are paying for the equipment not the boat size, and Cabrales Boat Yard in Peñasco uses a massive 150-ton marine travel lift.

Bluebird was out of the water and on her trailer in less than 20 minutes, and then we were free to drive away down a four-lane road, with the mast up, to the nearby dry storage yard where the mast would be unstepped. Once in the dry storage yard, they had the hull pressure washed and the mast down within 2 hours. These guys are efficient! I have nothing but good things to say about Marina San Carlos and their work/dry storage yard – I have seldom worked with such a well-run company of any kind.

Since we were coming from San Carlos, the nearest border crossing was at Nogales, one of the largest crossings on the southern the border. Traffic separation starts a few miles out, and it is a bit confusing and nerve wracking when towing a large object. We had met some cruisers who had walked us through it, but we still managed to miss the Kilometer 21 stop where you can surrender your Temporary Import Permit, and get in a wrong lane which required a bit of backing up. Just 20 minutes of waiting and we were in Arizona.

We found a funky campground named Sunflower Camp near the artsy town of Tubac, AZ and spent three nights dry camping in a mesquite grove. Woke to frost on the boat one morning, a very rude awakening after being in warm, sunny Mexico! While there we unhooked the boat and drove up to the Titan Missile Museum and the Pima Air and Space Museum, both near Tucson, and both very much worth a visit.

At the very cool Pima Air and Space Museum

From Tubac, we drove to Quartzsite, AZ where the Pow Wow, a giant gem and mineral show had just finished up. We strolled around acres of tents offering all manner of rocks and gems, RV accessories, Indonesian wood carvings, silver jewelry, clothing, cheap kitchen gadgets, etc. The place is full of gray-haired folks driving around in side by sides, and the entire town is devoted to supporting that lifestyle. We stayed two nights at the Desert Gold RV Park, a very nice facility where one of Dan’s brothers and his wife live.

From Quartzsite we drove north along Lake Havasu then crossed into California and arrived at Buena Vista Recreation Area just off I-5 near Bakersfield where we spent one night. The next morning, we headed north on I-5, and hadn’t gone very far when we heard an odd noise. We pulled over and saw that the center trailer axle had broken at a bad weld, leaving the center wheels canted out. Well shit. Dan got busy working on a temporary fix to at least get us to an exit and I started calling for a mobile welder. Being in farm country between Bakersfield and Stockton, I figured we could find a welder, and within an hour we had someone on-site welding the axle. Dan had it all aligned when he got there, and in another hour, we were on the road again. Relatively painless considering how much worse it could have been!

Made it into Carmichael near Sacramento that evening where my sister lives and we spent 4 days there visiting and waiting for weather at the Siskiyou Pass to improve. While there we took the opportunity to drive over to Half Moon Bay and visit my mom and meet another sister and her new granddaughter.

Leaving Sacramento, we headed north again. After the axle incident I was a little freaked out so I started doing a walkaround of the trailer when we stopped for fuel or a rest area. At our first stop I noticed one of the trailer tires appeared to be wearing severely. They were new when we left in the fall so something was going on. Luckily, we were only 10 miles from Red Bluff, CA, so we stopped at Les Schwab and bought a new tire and Dan tightened the loose wheel bearing which was the culprit.

Back on the road, we crossed the Siskiyou Pass in the afternoon with temperatures in the 50s (as I write this I-5 is closed at the California border due to winter weather). We spent the night in Central Point, OR at the Southern Oregon RV Park, a nice facility just off I-5 operated by Jackson County. In the morning we headed north again and drove up to Cottage Grove, OR where we spent the night at the home of our good friends John and Diane. Had to leave the boat in their neighbors barnyard as the gravel road leading up to their mountaintop home is steep and not trailer friendly.

The next morning, we made the final push up to Portland and back to our marina where this whole crazy adventure began. In total, we towed the trailer and boat about 3,200 miles and saw a lot of the country that we had never seen. We sailed about 500 miles and saw the parts of the Sea of Cortez that we had missed on our previous trips.

We spent time with family and friends. We had an adventure! For me, this is one of the things that makes life worth living. We now look forward to new adventures, like sailing Anjuli north in the summers, living in a house for the first time in 23 years, finishing the remodel of said house, and settling into a new community in Astoria, Oregon. Thanks for following along on this adventure!

PS – Bluebird will be up for sale shortly. Expect another blog with shameless self-promotion extolling all her virtues!

Adventures of Anjuli

Join us as Anjuli takes to the sea for new adventures